Headed over to Ponta Preta after work tonight. It was pretty big so I stuck to the shoulder.
Had a few really good moments where I was getting some small turns.
It is the biggest high in the world to surf there - I paddle back out feeling like I have arrived!
The swell is looking good for a morning surf tomorrow - we are meeting at 6.30, so all good!!
Monday 23 November 2009
Sunday 22 November 2009
The Holy Grail of Surfing
Sitting in the line-up, watching a good surfer catch a wave, you can turn to see him dissapear momentarily as he charges down the line and is hidden from you by a wall of water. After his bottom turn, you see his board reappear at the top of the wave and a decent top turn will throw a plume of spray into the air which rains into the water next to you. This is the perfect moment; the moment that really defines you as a good surfer. It's this moment that I want to experience for myself.
I have been surfing on-and-off for quite a while. In the UK, I live in East Wittering, near Chichester and although I surf whenever I can, not only are the waves weak and swells few and far between, but also work and other commitments regularly interfere with the best waves. I have recently found myself with a solution: I have moved to Sal in Cape Verde for the winter. Together with my fiance, we are running Josh Angulo's windsurf centre.
In Sal, we live about 5-10 minutes drive from Ponta Preta. When a north-westerly swell of 2m + hits the island (which happens pretty regularly in the winter), Ponta Preta is a perfect, right hand point break. I am regular footed so it's the perfect wave for me to improve my surfing.
Ponta Preta
Although working at a windsurf centre means that I don't get a lot of free time during the day and only one day off a week (if I'm lucky!), the time zone of Cape Verde means it gets light at about 6.15am and dark at 7pm every day which means I can surf just about every northwesterly-swell that hits through the winter!
Like many intermediate surfers, I can make small turns on the wave face. However, I really can't claim to have ever made a decent bottom and top turn on a proper wave, on a steep section. So, this is my mission for the winter in Sal: I want to leave this island being able to drive low into a bottom turn and throw some spray at the top!
I have only just decided to start keeping the blog. The idea is that it is a personal log but also I will share any new technique tips I find for other like-minded intermediate surfers.
So far, I have surfed Ponta Preta about 5 times. To be honest, the first couple of times scared the shit out of me. The wave breaks close to the rocks. During the take-off, you paddle hard to see the rocks boling underneath you and then have to get straight to your feet to drop down a very steep face!
In the last couple of sessions, I have started to feel a bit more comfortable at the spot and have had a fair few waves. The wave is fast and in order to keep on the face, you have to be going very fast (I have been clothes-lined by the lip a fair few times!) The ones I have made, I have managed to keep my speed by staying very high on the face and making little turns to keep myself high.
It's now 22nd November and a swell is due to start hitting tonight meaning that tomorrow morning should be a good session. My plan for tomorrow is to start trying some proper bottom turns. It's more than likely to end up in a few pummelings but I am looking forward to it!
I have been surfing on-and-off for quite a while. In the UK, I live in East Wittering, near Chichester and although I surf whenever I can, not only are the waves weak and swells few and far between, but also work and other commitments regularly interfere with the best waves. I have recently found myself with a solution: I have moved to Sal in Cape Verde for the winter. Together with my fiance, we are running Josh Angulo's windsurf centre.
In Sal, we live about 5-10 minutes drive from Ponta Preta. When a north-westerly swell of 2m + hits the island (which happens pretty regularly in the winter), Ponta Preta is a perfect, right hand point break. I am regular footed so it's the perfect wave for me to improve my surfing.
Ponta Preta
Although working at a windsurf centre means that I don't get a lot of free time during the day and only one day off a week (if I'm lucky!), the time zone of Cape Verde means it gets light at about 6.15am and dark at 7pm every day which means I can surf just about every northwesterly-swell that hits through the winter!
Like many intermediate surfers, I can make small turns on the wave face. However, I really can't claim to have ever made a decent bottom and top turn on a proper wave, on a steep section. So, this is my mission for the winter in Sal: I want to leave this island being able to drive low into a bottom turn and throw some spray at the top!
I have only just decided to start keeping the blog. The idea is that it is a personal log but also I will share any new technique tips I find for other like-minded intermediate surfers.
So far, I have surfed Ponta Preta about 5 times. To be honest, the first couple of times scared the shit out of me. The wave breaks close to the rocks. During the take-off, you paddle hard to see the rocks boling underneath you and then have to get straight to your feet to drop down a very steep face!
In the last couple of sessions, I have started to feel a bit more comfortable at the spot and have had a fair few waves. The wave is fast and in order to keep on the face, you have to be going very fast (I have been clothes-lined by the lip a fair few times!) The ones I have made, I have managed to keep my speed by staying very high on the face and making little turns to keep myself high.
It's now 22nd November and a swell is due to start hitting tonight meaning that tomorrow morning should be a good session. My plan for tomorrow is to start trying some proper bottom turns. It's more than likely to end up in a few pummelings but I am looking forward to it!
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